Monday, January 7

Trance - I.J. Schwarzlose - new perfume review

HOUDINI's SCENT 
TRANCE

If there would be a perfume for the Wizard of Oz today, a scent to accompany the viewers on march 8, it would inevitably be Trance, the latest introduction from the exclusive perfume house from Berlin - I.J. Schwarzlose.
Trance, the new introduction from I.J. Schwarzlose Berlin, is a scent revelation, a lost jewel of the Houdini era, the magician who was linked to the original Oz story.
Houdini (Erick Weisz), the Hungarian man who mesmerized the world with his magic illusions, had also a love for beauty and perfumes. It comes from his Hungarian education. His family was from Transylvania. One of the most mysterious and beloved illusions initiated by the former Houdin, the French magician, was related to perfume. 
The new Trance is a modern version of the lost jewel, which, at this turn, was a glorious oriental in the decadent Berlin inspired by another magic perfume Emeraude from Coty. Few know today the original Coty because the perfume was reformulated so many times since the Great Depression and what buyers find on e-bay (the American or British versions) lack the "magic" ingredient - the special compound which made the perfume so unique in Paris - it comes from a plant found in an "emerald" forest. It has a very specific geographical location and botanical identity. But those small additions in the secret formula contributed to its success. The original formula of Emeraude has not been recreated yet, not even in Paris (only its closest copy). The German I.J. Schwarzlose perfume, made by a genius perfumer in the early 20's whose name I will not reveal for the moment, contained a natural extract which is in my opinion much more interesting, it was produced from a mythical German forest. The "magic" of those mythical perfumes was the quality of several aromatic ingredients which do not smell the same when they are cultivated across Europe - the chemistry of Nature or micro-climate. This aspect, which relates chemistry, scent and spirit was systematically studied in Germany before WWII and used for all that a perfume can do. All these aspects are totally ignored today by perfume houses.


Trance (I.J. Schwarzlose) is an oriental perfume, sparkling, sensual, intoxicating, yet very subtle and extremely classy with a pure touch of freshness. It contains patchouli, vanilla, spices and mystic OUD. HOUDINI tour de force, under the spell of the Queen of the Flowers disguised in an Ace of hearts card.

The heart of TRANCE is the Queen of Flowers
(a strong leit-motiv in the scented history of I.J.Schwarzlose)

Like the perfume, Houdini learned how to become "invisible" and escape during his famous shows across the world - "dematerializing" and "reappearing" like the essence of a plant escapes the botanical "prison" inside the alembic and is captured elsewhere in a bottle. Meanwhile, the audience is in TRANCE.
The original creation used several products with a "mesmerizing" effect. We are in the roaring 20's - the decadent Berlin when perfumes are narcotic, like the city itself. Some aspects of the perfume history cannot be said on this blog. What makes a perfume addictive? Try TRANCE and you will discover those scents which were once forbidden and were reserved only to several happy few. This idea of perfumes which are as mesmerizing like OPIUM, the first perfume, not the Yves Saint Laurent creation, is deeply rooted in the history of the house. Its perfumes were used by the last Chinese dynasty and the bottles are preserved in Beijing while the narcotic nature is precisely the climax of Berlin when Trance was created.
Trance, magic tricks and perfumes are very related - several great perfumers from the past were more famous for other abilities than the "blending". From one of them I learnt a trick with cards I used with success in perfume creation, something I explained in the collection of articles on the right bar of the blog.

Trance -  a Master perfume from Berlin with an Oriental quelque-chose from I.J. Schwarzlose. You will adore it if you love the divine flower with an oriental labdanum mystic touch.





A theme for creators:
OUD INVISIBLE = HOUDINI
or the transparent light oud note
(do not forget to pay ME the tribute if you take the idea)


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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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